With its distinctive Mediterranean flair and famous panoramic views of the Bay and San Francisco’s city skyline, Sausalito is also known for its elegant, Victorian-era homes, rising up woodsy, steep-sided hills, and historic storefronts, many dating to a more rough-and-tumble era in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Massive marinas crowded with sailboats, yachts and colorful houseboats line the town’s waterfront, and a grand promenade with renowned seafood restaurants perched on piers beckon day-trippers with fancy food and sublime views.

It’s this charming storybook setting that has made Sausalito world famous over the years, drawing throngs of weekend tourists, who crowd the shops, art galleries and restaurants lining Bridgeway Boulevard, the town’s main thoroughfare.

At night, however, when most visitors are gone, Sausalito changes personality and reveals an alluring inner charm, thanks to several superb inns, fine dining spots, some lively bars and an enchanting and — dare we say — romantic after-dark ambiance. That’s what makes Sausalito my top choice for a relaxing weekend getaway, especially during the holidays.

For a recent Sausalito weekend escape, we stayed at the luxe Inn Above Tide in the heart of downtown and a stone’s throw from the town’s ferry landing. My wife and I booked the inn’s one-night “Bump Bar” package, one of several enticing gourmet packages offered by the inn. Others include itineraries designed by chef and restaurateur Joanne Weir, for example, and novelist Laura Dave, author of “The Last Thing He Told Me,” which was set and filmed in Sausalito.

We checked into our spacious, ground floor room in the late afternoon. Perched just above the waters edge, the room offered mesmerizing (and you might say dizzying) views of the Bay, with Belvedere and Tiburon, Angel Island, Alcatraz and the East Bay and San Francisco shorelines and skylines in the distance. It was an astonishing and unexpected surprise.

By the large bayside window that framed this view, we found the fixings for the Bump Bar package: a platter of white sturgeon caviar, crème fraiche, crackers, a bottle of Dom Perignon champagne, and a small mother of pearl spoon from Sausalito-based California Caviar Company, where their “Bump Bar” serves private parties and events. It was, to say the least, a dreamy way to start our Sausalito weekend getaway.

I love Bay Area history, and Sausalito is steeped in historical lore. It’s where the story of San Francisco began with the arrival of the Spanish exploratory vessel, the San Carlos, in the summer of 1775. Spanish land explorers were the first Europeans to discover San Francisco Bay, and when they entered the bay a few years later, they claimed the already-populated region for their empire.

The Spanish sailors moored their vessel at Angel Island and came to the shores of Sausalito for fresh water and to trade with the local indigenous tribe, the Coast Miwok. They named the spring-fed creek where they gathered water “Saucito” for the little willow trees that grew there. The name stuck, and the area eventually became known as Saucelito — eventually anglicized to Sausalito by the first British settler to arrive in the area, William Richardson.

In 1822, Mexico became the new regional sovereign after winning independence from Spain and ruled this small but important port until the Bear Flag revolt in 1846, leading to the subsequent occupation by the U.S. military and eventual cessation to the United States in 1848, just before the mayhem of the California Gold Rush.

This historic Marin landscape was literally the window and deck side view of our “room with a view” at the inn. Fog-kissed Angel Island caught the evening light, as we enjoyed the caviar and bubbly on the deck. Pelicans glided past in formation, and harbor seals played close by. Nighttime arrived, and the visitor crowds vanished, so we headed out on a short, pleasant walk to nearby Caledonia Street and an evening of fine dining at the acclaimed Sushi Ran, one of the Bay Area’s top Japanese restaurants.

After savoring nigiri and sashimi and plates of tempura, hamachi and crab cakes, we walked back to the inn along the Sausalito yacht harbor’s wide wooden boardwalk, taking in the nighttime sights and sounds of the sailboats moored here. At the edge of the marina, we peeked through the windows of Sausalito Books by the Bay and added it to tomorrow’s must-see list, then popped in for a jazz session and a post-dinner drink at the cozy No Name Bar, one of a few old school, local bars that has survived in Marin.

In the morning, the sunrise over Angel Island was just as magical as sunset had been, and we enjoyed the inn’s bountiful continental breakfast of baked goods, fresh fruit, juices, yogurt, coffee and tea, fueling up for a full day of exploration around town. Sausalito is great to explore on foot, and we love to walk, so we decided to head north along Bridgeway.

First stop was the Sausalito Historical Society’s new Ice House Museum, where fascinating displays reveal the area’s varied and colorful past. Continuing north on Bridgeway, we took a close look at several historic 19th and early 20th century arks, houseboats now moored on land on the waterfront. At the newly reimagined Dunphy Park, kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders were launching their craft into the bay, despite the chilly breeze. And nearby, the colorful houseboats of Galilee Harbor provided a revealing look at Sausalito’s famed waterfront community that took shape after World War II and established Sausalito as a magnet for musicians, artists and writers.

Next we visited the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Bay Model, where we saw a massive model of the Bay, displays on the region’s natural history and a fascinating museum on Marinship, the busy shipyard on the Sausalito waterfront during World War II. On a dock just outside the Bay Model, is Sea Trek, Sausalito’s longtime outfitter for kayak and SUP rentals and kayak tours — and a worthy stop for those looking for an on-water Sausalito adventure.

After lunch at nearby Fish, a delightful, casual waterside eatery near the Clipper Yacht Harbor, we visited the Heath Ceramics factory store on Gate Five Road. Heath’s elegant, colorful dinnerware — plates, bowls and cups — and tiles are classic California stoneware, rooted in the crafts movement of the late 1940s and a must-see site in Sausalito.

Walking back to the town center, we diverted off Bridgeway to Caledonia Street, which some locals regard as the real Sausalito. Here we found fun and funky Studio 333, a boutique, gallery and art collective; a local bar called Smitty’s; and some fine restaurants such as Sandrino Pizza & Vino, a stylish, small restaurant offering authentic, thin-crust Italian pizza made by chef-owners Alessandro Spaziani-Montagna and Monika Troggler, who hail from Verona, Italy.

Our long walk brought us back to the center of town, at the tiny but lovely Vina del Mar Plaza, a vestige of San Francisco’s 1915 Panama Pacific Exposition, where we enjoyed sitting by the ornate fountain on a park bench, surrounded by carved elephants, and munching cones of Hawaiian ice cream from Lappert’s located just across the street. It made a sweet finale to our sensational Sausalito weekend getaway.

That said, if you’re looking for a holiday-centric last hurrah, Sausalito can provide that too. You’ll find elaborate gingerbread structures at 27 shops, restaurants and businesses downtown, courtesy of the Chamber of Commerce, which is hosting its 17th annual Gingerbread House Tour from now through Dec. 31. In past years, the confectionary creations have included lighthouses, undersea scenes and a full mock-up of Alcatraz. Admire the sweet architecture, as you browse for gifts and dining inspiration — and make the weekend last a little longer.

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If You Go

Inn Above Tide: Rooms at this luxurious boutique hotel start at $515 per night. 30 El Portal, Sausalito; https://innabovetide.com/

Sushi Ran: Open for dinner daily and lunch Friday-Sunday at 107 Caledonia St.; https://sushiran.com/

Sausalito Books by the Bay: Open daily at 100 Bay St.; www.sausalitobooksbythebay.com/

No Name Bar: Open until 2 a.m. daily at 757 Bridgeway; https://thenonamebar.com/

Ice House Museum: Open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday at 780 Bridgeway; www.sausalitohistoricalsociety.com.

Bay Model Visitor Center: Open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday at 2100 Bridgeway. Find details at www.spn.usace.army.mil under the Missions/Recreation tab.

Sea Trek: Open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday at 2100 Bridgeway; www.seatrek.com/

Fish: Open from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily at 350 Harbor Drive; www.331fish.com/

Heath Ceramics: The factory store is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily at 400 Gate Five Road; www.heathceramics.com/.

Lappert’s Ice Cream: Open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily at 689 Bridgeway; www.lapperts.com.

Gingerbread House Tour: Pick up a map at the Sausalito Chamber of Commerce, 22 El Portal, or download one atwww.sausalito.org/gingerbread-house-tour.

We recently spent a week exploring these Oahu shores and, as the Hawaiians say, it was “no ka oi”—simply the best. We ziplined over the lush terrain of a working farm, swam off picturesque, world-famous surf beaches, and wandered through lush tropical gardens to a rushing waterfall.

At the sprawling Polynesian Cultural Center, we soaked up entertaining and educational presentations on the native food, music and cultural traditions of six Polynesian island nations. We tackled red dirt roads in all-terrain UTV vehicles in lush, mountainous valleys made famous by Jurassic Park and many other films. And after the ride, we took a boat across an ancient fishpond to a hidden beach for an afternoon of stand-up paddle boarding, sandbar wading, kayaking and hammock time.

Fueling our adventures: tasty, local-style meals at the colorful food trucks and shrimp shacks that line the coast-hugging Kamehameha Highway. We even squeezed in a charming, cowboy-style lu’au during the week.

A five-hour direct flight brought us from Oakland Airport to Honolulu, where we started our Oahu exploration with a leisurely morning drive from the airport to colorful Hale’iwa town. We paused for plates of butter garlic shrimp over rice at Jenny’s Shrimp truck — one of many food truck options in town — before heading to our hotel for two nights, Turtle Bay Resort, the only luxury hotel on the North Shore.

Set on Kuilima Point between a small crescent-shaped cove and a pristine, wave-swept beach, Turtle Bay is a recently remodeled and re-imagined resort and the choice of many Oahu visitors seeking an upscale North Shore stay in dreamy oceanfront rooms and bungalows. Turtle Bay, which has two championship golf courses (one designed by Arnold Palmer), is within reach of all the area’s main attractions: Hale’iwa town and the renowned North Shore beaches — Sunset, Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline — famous for their world-class winter surf and placid summer swells. The resort is also close to Kahuku Point, the northernmost point of land on Oahu.

Our first evening on the island eased us into Hawaii time as we enjoyed the resort’s small scale Paniolo Lu’au (“paniolo” means cowboy in native Hawaiian) held in a tented space near the resort’s stables (they offer guided horseback rides along the shore.) Before dinner and the show, we sipped mai tais, checked out traditional native Hawaiian games, learned some basic hula moves and petted cute miniature horses before being entertained by Hawaiian dance, music and fire knife performances.

For dinner, we feasted on banana leaf-steamed fresh catch, huli huli chicken, barbecued corn, colorful fresh taro rolls and savory Kalua pork, a lu’au staple cooked traditionally in a nearby “imu” or underground pit oven.  A post-luau stroll along the wonderfully sandy shore of Kawela Bay brought us back to the resort. Turtle Bay was a perfect start to our week of North Shore and East Side adventures.

Up early, we headed just down the road to Kuilima Farm for an hour-long walking tour, including a peek at their fascinating hydroponic produce growing facility that supplies produce for Turtle Bay Resort and the surrounding community.

We learned about Oahu’s ancient land divisions and traditional farming practices while strolling the orchards, taro fields and row crops, tasting produce like vine-ripe tomatoes, sugar cane, and ripe papaya along the way. The food stands on the farm’s road frontage are packed with bananas, pineapple, coconut, corn, watermelon, dragonfruit, papaya and freshly made local delicacies such as fried banana lumpia called “turon”, a classic Filipino snack.

The following morning was dedicated to the famed beaches of the North Shore: ‘Ehukai Beach (Banzai Pipeline), Waimea Beach, Sunset Beach and Chun’s Reef, a great beach for all ages. We wrapped up with an afternoon visit to the lush botanical garden and waterfall of Waimea Valley, a sacred historical site. The paved trail to Waimea Falls is about 3/4 of a mile and takes about 30 minutes to ascend to the falls, where you can take a swim (free lifevests are required).

There are several gravel paths off the main corridor for more adventurous hikers to explore the entire botanical garden collection of 52 themed gardens and more than 5,000 documented types of tropical and subtropical plants, including native Hawaiian and globally endangered species.

We also stopped at the valley’s Hawaiian cultural sites along the way, such as Kauhale, an ancient Hawaiian living site. Here, we learned about the life and culture of early Hawaiian people from resident artisans, each of whom have a traditional Hawaiian craft to share.

The next morning of this action-packed trip, we headed Climbworks, a zipline tour outfitter at Keana Farms, where we joined a thrilling three-hour tour that flies above a working farm. The ziplines range from 500 feet to nearly half a mile long (Hawaii’s longest) on eight dual lines. Along the way you also do two rappels, cross three sky bridges and enjoy panoramic ocean and mountain views of the North Shore.

Topping off our Oahu adventure was a visit to the East Side and the sprawling, 4,000-acre Kualoa Ranch, a private nature reserve and a breathtaking location on the eastern shore of Oahu at Kaneohe Bay. Nestled in valleys sacred to ancient Hawaiians, the ranch has served as a set for numerous movies and TV series, including “Jumanji,” “Jurassic Park,” “Hawaii Five-0” and “Lost.” Activities here include ATV and UTV “Raptor” expeditions, jeep expeditions, e-bike tours, ziplining, horseback riding and a boat excursion to a “secret island” beach for SUP, kayak and sandbar wading activities.

We chose the three-hour UTV tour, with a guide leading us deep into scenic valleys and remote areas, tackling dirt roads and dusty trails and crossing seasonal streams. More than 200 Hollywood movies and TV shows have been filmed on the ranch over the past 75 years.

After the tour, we hit the beach on Kulaloa’s “Secret Island Beach Adventure,” where a flat-bottomed boat spirits guests across an ancient Hawaiian fishpond to a quiet strand of sand near the ranch for an afternoon of kayaking, stand-up paddle-boarding, sandbar wading, beach volleyball, table tennis and horseshoes. We sampled a few, then wound down the week simply relaxing in a hammock under a swaying palm tree, a suitable Hawaiian-style end to our big North Shore and East Side Oahu adventure.

If You Go

Jenny’s Shrimp Truck: Open from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily at 66528a Kamehameha Highway in Haleiwa.

Turtle Bay Resort: The Paniolo Lu’au ($195-$225) is held from every Wednesday evening, with shuttles departing the resort at 5 and 5:30 p.m. and returning at 8 p.m. 57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku; www.turtlebayresort.com.

Kuilima Farm: Farm tours ($25-$45) offered at 9 and 10:30 a.m. Wednesday-Friday at 57-146 Kamehameha Highway in Kahuku. Make reservations and learn more at  https://kuilimafarm.com.

Waimea Valley: Normally closed on Mondays, the Waimea Valley will be open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, except holidays, from Nov. 20 through Jan 2. Admission is $14-$25. 59-864 Kamehameha Highway in Haleiwa; www.waimeavalley.net

Climbworks: Book a 3-hour tour ($180, ages 7 and up) at Keana Farms on Oahu’s North Shore at www.climbworks.com.

Courtyard Oahu North Shore: This Marriott hotel is located at 55-400 Kamehameha Highway in Laie; www.marriott.com

Polynesian Cultural Center: There are five ticket packages available, including Islands of Polynesia and Ha: Breath of Life ($96-$120) with access to six Polynesian villages and admission to the “Ha: Breath of Life” show ($96-$120), and the Ali’i Luau package ($152-$190), which includes the villages, “Ha” show and a luau buffet. 55-370 Kamehameha Highway in Laie; https://polynesia.com/

Kualoa Ranch: The ranch offers a wide range of tours and activities, from a secret island beach adventure ($52) to a UTV “Raptor” tour ($145), in Kaneohe on Oahu’s Windward or East Coast; kualoa.com.

Autumn is an ideal time to visit the eastern Sierra. Crowds are light, temperatures are cooler and, even better, the region’s aspen forests provide a dazzling, albeit brief, display of fall color. (Find the latest details on those hues and a map of where colors are nearing peak display at https://californiafallcolor.com/.)

One of the best ways to immerse oneself in Mammoth’s abundant natural splendor is to overnight in a rustic cabin and live like a pioneer — 21st century-style.

There are many cabin choices in Mammoth, from historic lakeside cabins in the dense woods to more modern tiny homes set in mountain meadows. I recently spent two nights at the Alpenhof Lodge, located near Mammoth’s Village complex, and another two nights at the Double Eagle Resort & Spa at the base of 10,908-foot Carson Peak on the June Lake loop.

After a week of cabin life, I can attest that there’s no better place to plunk yourself down and bathe in nature than a cozy wooden house in the woods. Here are some of the best rustic cabin options in the Mammoth region to try out this fall:

Cabins at Mammoth Lakes

After an unhurried, day-long drive from the Bay Area over the Sierra’s dramatically steep and scenic Sonora Pass, we arrived at Mammoth Lake’s Alpine-style Alpenhof Lodge, whose entrance is embellished by an oversized Willkommen in German-style lettering.

We stayed in one of the lodge’s two-bedroom cabins, equipped with a small kitchen and fireplace and set in a woodsy setting alongside the main lodge. While not in the deep woods, the Alpenhof is in an ideal location right across from the Mammoth Village, where resort-style restaurants, bars and shops beckon, and a free open-air trolley, equipped with a bike trailer, can transport you to the world-famous Mammoth Mountain bike park and to the spectacular Mammoth Lakes Basin for picnics, fishing, hikes, mountain bike and horseback rides, and refreshing lake swims.

Just across the street from the lodge is the paved Lakes Basin multi-use path that winds five miles up into the mountains. It’s perfect for walks, runs and road and mountain bike rides. (Class 1 e-mountain bikes are also allowed on the path and are a popular choice with cyclists.)

Enjoy the Alpenhof’s lively Clocktower cellar bar, whose multiple craft brew taps and whiskey selection are popular with the locals, and Petra’s, an excellent bistro and wine bar. Details: alpenhof-lodge.com

Mammoth Mountain Chalets, right next to the Mammoth Mountain Main Lodge, has numerous hiking and biking trails right from your doorstep — and a nearby shuttle takes explorers to Reds Meadow and Yosemite National Park. Each cabin has a private deck and a wood-burning stove. Details: mmchalets.com

Historic Tamarack Lodge and Resort is the grande dame of Mammoth Lakes Basin and oozes charm with its cabins and a rustic main lodge set on the shore of pristine Twin Lakes. Its popular, upscale Lakefront Restaurant has attracted visitors for decades. Details: mammothmountain.com

Several rustic, historic lodges also can be found in the Mammoth region. Secluded Crystal Crag Lodge, set at 9,000 feet on the shore of Lake Mary has drawn visitors here for almost a hundred years. That’s in large part thanks to the lodge’s incredible setting: a trout-filled lake, the pure mountain air and the countless tree-lined hiking and biking trails on the edge of the High Sierra backcountry. These rustic cabins are very popular and often booked a year in advance. Details: crystalcrag.com

The Wildyrie Lodge on Lake Mamie offers lakeside cottages with full kitchens, bathrooms and spacious sun decks with barbecues. Built in 1928, Wildyrie was one of the first hunting and fishing lodges in the Eastern Sierra. It also served as a local post office and general store. Details: wildyrielodge.com

Lake George’s Woods Lodge has rustic cabins with full kitchens and fireplaces, and many have dramatic views of the stunning scenery surrounding the property. Details: woodslodgemammoth.com

Sierra Meadows Ranch offers tiny home-style cabins with one bedroom and one bath and set in a scenic, wide-open meadow on the outskirts of town. Each cabin offers a full kitchen, living room and a private bedroom with queen bed, bunk beds and a sleeper sofa. Details: sierrameadowsranch.com/lodging

Just south of the town of Mammoth Lakes, Convict Lake’s cabins, each named after local fish species and landmarks are set in an aspen forest. This is one of the top spots in the region for lakeside fall color. Details: convictlake.com

Cabins at June Lake

The Double Eagle Resort & Spa is just 12 miles from the eastern entrance to Yosemite Park  and 22 miles northeast from Mammoth Lakes. The resort’s 16 cabins offer charming, rustic luxury in an aspen and pine forest.

Many are set by a trout-filled pond and a rushing creek at the base of Carson Peak, a steep-sided Sierra edifice of almost surreal beauty. Horsetail Falls, perched midway on the peak, was a torrent of snowmelt, flowing like a burst water main out of a granite wall, when I was there. Wagon wheels and old mining equipment decorate the grounds, which also houses a spa, indoor pool and the excellent Eagle’s Landing restaurant. Details: doubleeagle.com

Silver Lake Resort, just a few miles from the town of June Lake on the June Lake Loop, was established in 1916 and is one of the premier destinations for trout fishing in the Sierra. Some 17 cabins offer the perfect retreat for anglers, hikers and outdoor lovers. Details: silverlakeresort.net/cabins

The dining scene

Alpenhof Lodge, Tamarack Lodge, Double Eagle Resort and Sierra Meadows Ranch have restaurants on property. You might also want to treat yourself to some of the many excellent restaurants and brewpubs in Mammoth Lakes. Here are some suggestions:

Set at the busy intersection of Minaret and Lake Mary Road, the spacious Mammoth Brewing Company brewery and pub offers a wide menu including ale-battered fish and chips, barbecue chicken flatbread pizzas, crispy chicken and jalapeno griddle cakes, hearty pub salads and fried chicken sandwiches with sriracha cabbage slaw. Check out details and the menu at mammothbrewingco.com.

Dos Alas Cafe & Lounge favors “Cubarican” dishes such as sandwiches with roasted garlic pork and ham and cheese, as well as Spanish pollo en escabeche (pickled chicken). It’s located at Sierra Meadows Ranch. Find details and peek at the menu at dosalascafe.com.

And the Warming Hut offers classic comfort food in an airy setting in Mammoth Lakes. Try the Chicken n’ Waffle for breakfast, the Cubano sandwich for lunch or the flatiron steak for dinner. Take a look at the menu at thewarminghutmammoth.com.

As I enjoyed a plate of Middle Eastern food truck fare, sipped an IPA and surveyed the backyard party scene, I realized nearly everyone around me — adults, kids and even a couple of pooches— was clad in plaid. It was like a Grateful Dead show for the lumberjack set. I felt out of place in basic fleece, but a poster on the side of a food truck provided an explanation: It was a one-dayFlannel Fest, a fundraising celebration of lumberjack chic.

Welcome to Oregon, partner.

Best known for an abundance of outdoor activities — fly fishing, white-water rafting, biking, canoeing, camping and golf — Bend also boasts a plethora of art and cultural attractions, eateries and more brewpubs, breweries and beer gardens than humanly possible to visit. Here’s a sampling of what I discovered during my recent, very fun visit to this hub of Central Oregon living.

Play it again, Bend

For nearly 80 years, the iconic Tower Theatre has been the main cultural showcase in downtown Bend. Fully renovated in 2004, this Art Deco Moderne venue is Central Oregon’s premier stage. With performances scheduled year-round, upcoming summer and fall highlights include acts that range from Macy Gray and to a 20th anniversary screening of “Napoleon Dynamite,” followed by a freewheeling conversation with three of its stars.

The iconic Midtown Ballroom & Domino Room is a 16,000- square foot live music venue housed in a former creamery. On the night I visited, California-based duo Dirtwire drew a large and lively crowd.

Meanwhile, in the city’s Old Mill District, the open-air, 8,000-person capacity Hayden Homes Amphitheater recently received some significant upgrades including an extensive stageexpansion. With a new partnership with Live Nation Entertainment, the amphitheater is Central Oregon’s best venue for some of the country’s largest and most popular touring acts, from Chris Stapleton to Lyle Lovett, the Lumineers and Counting Crow.

Axes and anglers

Of course, Bend has more entertainment options out there than simply music. Do you ever feel like tossing an ax like a real woodsman? Summon your inner lumberjack with hatchet throwing at Bend’s Unofficial Logging Company. When your arm fatigues, there’s a rotating selection of craft beer and a delicious food menu available Thursdays through Sundays. Closed toe shoes required (for obvious reasons).

There’s shopping, too. The Old Mill District — identified by its trademark trio of smokestacks — is nestled into 270 acres along the Deschutes River on a site that once housed one of thelargest ponderosa pine sawmill operations in the world.

Now, more than 55 local, regional and national restaurants and retailers call the district home. Be sure to check out Confluence Fly Shop for rods and reels, fishing apparel, fly tying classes and colorful fish art on the walls.

Museums and an art walk

Art walks have become a way of life for many cities, and Bend is no exception. The Downtown Bend First Friday Art Walk — held from 5 to 9 p.m. on the first Friday of each month — attracts crowds of locals and visitors. Stroll the charming streets and browse the galleries and local businesses, some serving free tastes of wine, beer and spirits.

The High Desert Museum just south of Bend is one of only six museums and libraries in the country to receive the prestigious 2021 National Medal for Museum and Library Service. Set on 135 acres with more than 100,000 square feet of exhibit space, the museum offers everything from high desert animals like foxes, snakes, raptors and owls, to living history actors recreating the pioneer days of central Oregon. The museum’s newest exhibit, Creations of Spirit, will immerse you in the Indigenous Plateau worldview, reflecting knowledge systems of tribes along the Columbia River and its tributaries.

About an hour’s drive north of Bend, The Museum at Warm Springs was founded to preserve the culture, history and traditions of the three tribes that comprise the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs. Visitors to the museum experience the sounds of ancient songs and languages, the work of traditional craftsmen and the rich and colorful cultures that make up the Confederated Tribes of The Warm Springs Reservation of Oregon. Particularly noteworthy is the collection of traditional Native American baskets.

Sips and bites

Wild Rose has served up fine Thai cuisine in Central Oregon for 10 years. Family owned and operated, the restaurant uses recipes native to Northern Thailand, which means you won’t find Pad Thai or peanut sauce on their menu. They’re famous for their Curry Basil noodles, served family style. And nearly every dish is accompanied with khao niew, sticky jasmine rice meant for eating with your hands.

Terra Kitchen, a plant-forward restaurant at the SCP Redmond hotel, features farm-to-fork, Oregon-inspired cuisine using fresh ingredients sourced from local farms, local purveyors and even the restaurant’s own rooftop garden. The menu features delicious dishes — think spring pea risotto, eggplant Bolognese and veggie pizzas — aimed at fostering a healthy planet, healthy communities and a healthy you.

Like hard cider? A husband and wife duo built the charming Bend Cider building and planted the apple orchards here, where you can enjoy tastings and, on weekends, live music.

Set in a former Catholic school’s main building, the Old St. Francis Pub at McMenamins hotel and brewpub offers hearty pub fare, handcrafted ales brewed right downstairs in the onsite brewery and seasonal weekly specials. The pub’s deep booths, subdued lighting and original artwork make for a truly memorable beer tasting experience.

The Bite in Tumalo — at the north end of Bend — serves fantastic food from an array of food trucks, including Rico’s Tacos, Pine Marten Pizza and NorthFresh Sushi. There’s an amazing assortment of beers on tap, too, plus a great festive vibe. Gather round the fire pits, enjoy the music and play games with the kids.

The Midtown Yacht Club has a tongue-in-cheek name for its lively taphouse. The club’s food truck lot offers a wide variety of grub, ranging from Shim Shon’s Israeli street food to NorthFresh’s sushi, make and poke.

And Worthy Brewing is a solar-powered brewery with two locations in Bend on the east and west sides. They serve up fresh pilsners, stouts and IPAs plus sandos and smash burgers. Don’t miss Bend’s very own observatory at the east side location. You can even tour the “Hopservatory” with onsite observatory director Grant Tandy and gaze into the heavens.

If You Go

Getting here: Bend is about an eight-hour drive from the Bay Area but you can also fly direct from SFO to the Redmond Municipal Airport (RDM); flyrdm.com.

Where to stay: For eco-chic lodging in downtown Bend, the boutique Oxford Hotel is a four-diamond hotel fusing sustainability with luxurious amenities. Its Roam restaurant offers organic dishes made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. 10 NW Minnesota Ave. in Bend;  oxfordhotelbend.com

Tower Theatre: 835 NW Wall St. in Bend; towertheatre.org

Midtown Ballroom: 51 NW Greenwood Ave.; https://midtownballroom.com

Hayden Homes Amphitheater: 344 SW Shevlin Hixon Drive; bendconcerts.com

Unofficial Logging: 910 NW Harriman St., Suite 100; unofficiallogging.com

Downtown and the Old Mill District: Find details on the shops and restaurants of the Old Mill District at oldmilldistrict.com. Information about downtown Bend, including the First Friday Art Walk, is available at downtownbend.org.

High Desert Museum: This museum is open daily at  59800 Highway 97 in Bend. Admission is $12-$20; highdesertmuseum.org.

Museum at Warm Springs: Open Tuesday-Saturday at 2189 Highway 26 in Warm Springs. Admission is $3.50 to $7; https://museum.warmsprings-nsn.gov/.

Wild Rose: This Thai restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily at 150 NW Oregon Ave. inBend; wildrosethai.com.

Terra Kitchen: Open for dinner Wednesday-Saturday at the SCP Redmond Hotel,521 SW Sixth St. in Redmond; scphotel.com/redmond/terra.

Bend Cider: Open Wednesday-Sunday at 64649 Wharton Ave. in Bend; bendcider.com.

Old St. Francis School: This historic McMenamins property in downtown Bend includes a hotel and five restaurants and bars; mcmenamins.com/old-st-francis-school.

The Bite: Open daily for lunch and dinner at 19860 Seventh St. in Bend; thebitetumalo.com

Midtown Yacht Club: Open daily for lunch and dinner at 1661 NE Fourth St. in Bend; midtownyachtclub.com.

Worthy Beer: Open daily for lunch and dinner at the Eastside Pub location at 495 NE Bellevue Drive and the Westside Worthy Beer and Burgers at 806 NW Brooks St. in Bend; worthy.beer.

It formed 7,700 years ago when Mount Mazama, a 12,000-foot-tall volcano, experienced the largest eruption in North America in the past 640,000 years and subsequently collapsed, forming a volcanic caldera, which then began to fill with rainfall and snowmelt.

There’s no natural outlet for Crater Lake’s water, yet it never completely fills up. The lake loses water, as it seeps out of the old volcano’s outer slopes at a slow but steady rate, like a porous paper coffee filter. It’s considered the cleanest large body of water in the world and holds a whopping 4.9 trillion gallons of water.

The park may be open year round for intrepid back country types, but those of us who prefer to circle the magnificent lake by car or bike — and hike snow-free trails — will want to aim for a summer or fall vacation, when the rim road is typically open. And now is the time to plan it.

We arrived at the park one evening last autumn after a short flight from SFO to Medford, Oregon, and a somewhat difficult 80-mile drive on the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway in the dark woods of the western Cascade Range. Cell service is spotty here, so it’s best to set your GPS to “Crater Lake Dining” before leaving civilization and keep a keen eye out for deer on the road, especially at night.

We made it to the park just in time for our 8:30 dinner reservation at the charming, historic Crater Lake Lodge, the only place to overnight and dine during the fall shoulder season. The park offers camping and cabins at Mazama Village, seven miles from the lake, but for a premier lodging experience nothing beats this one. Perched right on the caldera’s rim, Crater Lake Lodge has been a favorite spot to overnight in the park since 1915.

The inn’s sitting and dining rooms are charming, but the meals (as in many National Park lodges) can be a bit disappointing — and expensive. Next time, we may bring our own food (in a cooler to bring into the room as hungry bears have been known to break into cars) and a few bottles of wine to enjoy on the lodge’s scenic deck, equipped with vintage rocking chairs from which to enjoy the outstanding lake views.

Early the next day, we grabbed to-go breakfasts at the Rim Village Store and headed out on the park’s 33-mile-long Rim Road for a clockwise exploration, stopping to hike, picnic and photograph the many sights of this majestic place. The park has plenty of room to explore — almost 200,000 acres — and attracts road trippers, day hikers, backpackers and cyclists in summer and, in winter, snowshoers and cross-country skiers.

The main focus for most summer-fall visitors are day hikes from the park’s many trailheads and overlooks. It’s also a paradise for nature and landscape photographers and for astrophotographers seeking that perfect shot of the Milky Way, thanks to the park’s unpolluted skies on cloudless, moonless nights.

Heading out from the Rim Village, we drove first to Discovery Point, a pullout, for an overview of the lake’s southwest shore. Cone-shaped Wizard Island sits close to shore, and the waters of the lake appeared mirror-like in the morning calm. Soon the sun crested the peaks and ranges surrounding the lake, forming a golden crown. This is the spot where, in 1853, gold prospector John Hillman accidentally “discovered” the lake (it was actually well known and considered sacred by the indigenous tribes who lived here for thousands of years).

A short distance up the road is the Watchman Peak Overlook and the trailhead to a fire lookout that’s a favorite spot for sunrise and sunset-seekers and hiking access to stunning panoramic views from the top of Watchman Peak (8,013 feet). The 1.6-mile roundtrip trail takes about an hour to complete and gains some 420 feet in elevation on the way up.

If you want to get a lakeside view of Crater Lake’s famous waters, the Cleetwood Cove Trail is a must. This short (1.1 mile) but steep trail provides the only foot access from the rim to the lakeshore. Key piece of information: You drop 700 feet in elevation on the way down (equivalent to 65 flights of stairs) and, of course, have to walk back up after you enjoy the lake’s clear, cold water. Swimming (no wetsuits) and fishing (artificial lures or flies only) are popular activities at the cove. Crater Lake is home to rainbow trout and Kokanee salmon, and fishing is allowed (catch-and-release or to keep, no fishing license required).

Avid hikers can take on the 4.4-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mount Scott, a gradual ascent that provides great panoramic views. Mount Scott is the park’s highest peak at 8,929 feet in elevation. If you want a taste of hiking the famed Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), there are two trailheads within the park where the PCT crosses the park. Several thousand backpackers pass through Crater Lake National Park each year, as they tackle the rugged route that stretches from Canada to Mexico.

All of the 30 overlooks along the Rim Road are worth a stop, and we particularly enjoyed the Cloudcap Overlook at the end of a 1-mile spur road — the highest paved road in Oregon — and the Phantom Ship Overlook, where views of a small rocky island resemble a ghost ship at sea. The island is composed of erosion-resistant lava estimated to be 400,000 years old. Also on East Rim Drive: pretty Vidae Falls, which tumbles over a glacier-carved cliff, dropping 1,000 feet over a series of ledges. In summer, wildflowers abound here.

If you’re not much a hiker, a great way to see Crater Lake is by trolley. The ranger-narrated tours depart from the Rim Village daily every hour from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. from July through September and last about two hours. The trolley explores the west and north section of Rim Drive, one of America’s most scenic roads. The trolley stops at five to 10 scenic overlooks, where you can get off and enjoy the views without breaking a sweat.

If You Go

Crater Lake National Park: A 7-day entrance pass is $30 per car, payable by debit or credit card or Apple or Samsung pay (no cash accepted). Find maps, hiking trail information and other details at www.nps.gov/crla/.

Crater Lake Lodge: The historic lodge offers just 71 rooms, so be sure to book as far ahead as possible. For the 2023 season, which runs May 12 to Oct. 15, rooms ($212 and up) were still available for dates in May and October as of press time; www.travelcraterlake.com.

Crater Lake Trolley:  Tours ($25-$36) depart from the Rim Village near Crater Lake lodge daily beginning July 1. Reservations are recommended; www.craterlaketrolley.net.

Ride the Rim: This popular family-oriented biking event takes place on Sept. 9 and 16, when the park will close most of the perimeter road, allowing bicyclists to gather for an organized mass ride around the rim of the crater. The event is free, but advance registration and the park entrance fee are required; www.ridetherimoregon.com.