Fall foliage drives get a lot of attention in Colorado — who doesn’t gawk at a shimmering, golden stand of aspen trees? — but have you ever made the mid- or late-summer trek from Denver to Grand Junction, winding through towering red rock canyon walls in the early evening? It’s like an amped-up golden hour, but with the earthy reds illuminated in a way that seems cinematic. And it’s a warm, radiant welcome to the Western Slope.
Last July, my friend group somehow synced up all seven of our schedules for a last-minute getaway to the Grand Valley so we could bounce between wineries, float in the Colorado River and, of course, bring home a stash of juicy Palisade peaches and crates filled with plump cherries.
But beyond the agricultural bounty that this part of the state is famous for, Grand Junction and its environs have become an outdoor lover’s playground, a reputation bolstered by the new — and epic — downhill mountain biking trail, the Palisade Plunge, and the recently developed Riverfront at Los Colonias Park that’s a hub for kayakers, paddle boarders and lazy river enthusiasts.
Did you know that the area’s Rattlesnake Canyon has 35 sandstone arches, the second-largest concentration of arches outside of Utah’s namesake (and more crowded) national park? Or that 100 wild mustangs roam in Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Preserve, one of just a few U.S. ranges set aside to protect wild horses?
The New York Times included Grand Junction on its “52 Places to Go in 2023” list, along with Martinque and Lausanne, Switzerland. And Food & Wine Magazine declared Grand Junction the “new Sonoma.” Even if the recent attention drums up tourism from outside Colorado, your visit isn’t likely to seem crowded – the region includes 1 million acres of public land featuring rivers, canyons, mesas and mountains.
Here’s a guide to exploring Colorado’s Western Slope this summer.
Where to adventure on the Western Slope
The Grand Junction area is a playground for mountain bikers, hikers and paddlers.
The alpine-to-desert Palisade Plunge, which was more than a decade in the making, descends a thrilling 32 miles from the world’s tallest flat-top mountain to the valley floor in Palisade. It beckons experienced bikers (there are black diamond sections) to skirt cliff sides and, despite being called the “plunge,” includes some grueling climbs. Those taking the plunge should carry plenty of water and avoid biking this technical trail on summer’s hottest days.
Another option for mountain bikers is Powderhorn Mountain Resort, which in the summer months opens its lifts to those looking for a thrill on two-wheels. The resort has 13 miles of downhill biking trails plus 5.2 miles of hiking trails braiding the mountain.
Rattlesnake Canyon’s arches have long been one of Colorado’s best-kept secrets and are one of the reasons that the region caught the attention of The New York Times. The salmon-colored arches are 175 million years in the making, originating as sand dunes that over the years were sculpted by wind, frost and runoff, with the trickling water eventually enlarging the alcoves’ holes to create magnificent arches.
Adrenaline Driven Adventures Co. offers Jeep and Polaris RZR tours to the arches, where you can decide between a 3-mile round-trip family-friendly hike or a more extreme 6-mile trail.
For those looking to cool off, the Riverfront at Las Colonias Park is an emerging destination, with a forthcoming amphitheater, plaza for restaurants and shops, and a cross-river zip line. Grand Junction Adventures has an outpost in the park, renting stand-up paddleboards, river surfboards, rafts, kayaks, and more to enjoy on the wide Colorado River.
Where to stay on the Western Slope
Whether you’re coming for a wine weekend or an adventurous getaway (or both), there are plenty of lodging options.
Hotel Maverick is a 60-room boutique “teaching” hotel that neighbors Colorado Mesa University. Hospitality students help run the hotel and curate the menu at Devil’s Kitchen (snag a rooftop seat and enjoy the view). Hotel guests have access to the university’s Outdoor Program, which comes with 50% off gear rentals for kayaks, climbing essentials and more.
Camp Eddy opened this year for its first summer season in Los Colonias Park, with riverfront Airstreams and tiny homes, plus camping options and RV sites with full hookups.
In wine country, Two Rivers Winery & Chateau has the feel of a country French chateau and Spoke & Vine is a stylish 1950s motel made modern in 2019 and that has cruiser bikes available for exploring the nearby wineries.
Where to eat on the Western Slope
The recent attention paid to the Western Slope includes the dining scene; two local concepts were recognized as James Beard semifinalists.
Josh Niernberg received an outstanding chef nomination for Foodbar, which has a wine menu dominated by Colorado vino, charcuterie boards stacked with local meats and cheeses, Palisade fruit preserves and locally made sourdough. The menu changes with the seasons.
Taco Party, a fast-casual spot in downtown Grand Junction, is another hit from Niernberg. It dishes out craft margaritas, blistered shishito peppers with white cheddar fondue and tasty tacos cradling crispy cauliflower, hot chicken and rockfish tempura with an avocado aioli.
The area’s other James Beard semifinalist is Pêche in Palisade, which was nominated for hospitality. The restaurant sources its produce from Grand Valley growers and while the menu changes frequently, you can expect summer dishes like charred fig and burrata, ribeyes with chimichurri, and peach cobbler. Make a reservation – an early one, if you can. Otherwise, you risk missing out on a loaf of sourdough to call your own and other dishes that are in high demand.
Craving pizza and beer? Newcomer Mama Ree’s brought back a nostalgic pizzeria staple (a salad bar!) and has build-your-own pizza options as well as specialty pies, including one with pear, prosciutto and goat cheese on a pesto base and a Dorito pie with crunchy chips, taco-seasoned beef, cheddar cheese and shredded lettuce.
Where to drink on the Western Slope
Colorado’s wine country is a half-century old, but a new generation of winemakers is helping solidify Palisade’s reputation as a grape-growing region. The high-desert climate, fertile soil, ample sunshine and “million dollar breeze” that drifts through the canyons make up conditions that favor wine production.
At Sauvage Spectrum, Patric Matysiewsk is crafting sparkling wines and pet-nats (a French term that translates to “naturally sparkling”) with high-desert fruits true to Colorado’s terroir. On hot afternoons, the warehouse tasting room serves frozen wine cocktails along with bubbles.
Over at Ordinary Fellow, winemaker Ben Parsons transformed a former peach packing shed into a tasting room. Le Snack food truck is parked out front. Carboy Winery, one of the largest wine producers in the state, has an estate vineyard and tasting room. Head to the rooftop to take in views of Mount Garfield and the Book Cliff mountains while sipping everything from sparkling wines to cab franc.
Of course, Colorado’s beer scene has spilled over into the region, too. Edgewater Brewery is located on the Colorado Riverfront Trail and has a large lawn for playing cornhole and listening to live music, and the new Trail Life Brewing on Main Street is a brewery that doubles as a bike repair shop.
Make time to explore the cocktail scene here, too. At Highlands Distillery, which is bordered by a lavender farm, you can enjoy bloody marys with a Hatch green chili jerky stick. Clark & Co.’s Distillery serves cocktails made with its spirits, including a Palisade mojito with peach moonshine. Fortunately for now, they remain our little secret.
